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History

Each city, including Zagreb, has it's own history and destiny often non dependant on it's habitants will. That destiny is filled with sudden twists, events and persons which will create a historical sequence and tell a story. This is the story of a city with a rich cultural heritage dating from prehistoric ages and the archaeological findings of Roman culture all the way until modern times.

The city of Zagreb deployed on the south-western pannonic area between the mountain Medvednica and the plain over the Sava river. The very first findings of human habitants in the area date all the way to the stone age, around 35000 B.C. Caves named Supljata Pec and Veternica are just some of the sites where the remains of cave bears, carbonic bones, hearths and spikes made of bones were found.

Later findings show us that the Zagreb city area was settled by the Illyrians, and later Celts until the arrival of Romans in 228 B.C. The finding site of the Roman city Andautonium dating between 1-4 century B.C., located in the area of the village Scitarjevo, next to Zagreb, is also well known. An archaeological park can be found at that locality now days, pointing out the 2000 year old tradition of urban settling in the Zagreb city area. Numerous remains and settlements from the Roman times have been found on many other locations. Roman presence in these parts was slowly replaced by raids and pillaging, first by Goth tribes and later by Avar and Slavic tribes, leading to destruction of not only Andautonium in 615, but also of other Roman settlements in these parts.

The movement of Slavic tribes through these parts causes the colonization of the area by the Croats, including the habitants of ZA BREGOM (by the hill), next to the Sava river, where the fortified settlement Gradec will develop later on. The first settlement arose in the area where the cathedral and Kaptol are today, making it a core part of the city today as well. Hungarian king Ladislaus I Arpad founded a bishopric there in 1094, subordinated to the archbishopric in Ostrogon (Hungary). Kaptol developed as a spiritual centre, where clergymen were given land to live on, and where they built curies. Bishopric could have been founded only on a location of lasting settlement because the Canon law knows no other option. By that the settlement legally became a city and the year 1094 entered the history as the birthday of the city of Zagreb.

There are numerous stories and legends about the name of Zagreb. One of them is the legend of a woman named Mandusa and the governor who yelled to Mandusa to grab (to grab is in Croatian „ZAGRABITI“) some water from the well because he was thirsty. The well was later named Mandusevac and the city was named Zagreb, but it's more likely that the name origins from the Slavic verb „zagrepsti“, meaning to dig in, which points out that the oldest settlers dug a moat around the settlement for protection.

Somewhat later than the Kaptol settlement, the settlement called Kerec was established on the west side of the Medvescak creek. Later it was called Communities de monte Greci, Gradec, Grecz, and today it is called Gric. Both settlements suffered the Tartar invasion. The Croatian-Hungarian king Bela IV found shelter in Gradec while fleeing towards the Adriatic sea, but it wasn't long before he left. Both settlements were robbed and burnt, and the cathedral was heavily damaged. Tartars left quite soon, continuing their pursuit of the king. In 1242 king Bela IV, in order to thank for the shelter and to strengthen the country's defences, gave the habitants of Gradec the Golden Bull. The Golden Bull was the privilege which excludes Gradec from the governor's rule and obliges them only to army duty for the king. Immediately after the withdrawal of Tartars the fortification of Gradec started. It was finished by 1266 Town walls with towers and gates were triangularly shaped around the city. Gradec was walled with 7 towers and 5 gates: Kamena vrata (Stone Gate), Nova vrata (New Gate), Mala poljska vrata – Dverce (Small Gate), Surovo dverce and Mesnicka Vrata. Outside the city walls outskirts like Njemacka (Sostarska) Ves and Nova Varoska Ves (Ilica street today). Citizens elected a magistrate and the city judge, but the most eminent city official was the Captain who overlooked the city walls. Merchants and craftsmen who lived in the city formed guilds. Gradec city centre was at the St. Mark's square, and the town started developing in such a rapid manner that they even started forging their own money - the Zagreb denar.

Simultaneously, under the influence of the Cistercians, restoration and fortification of Kaptol commenced. On clergymen’s' estates, north of Kaptol, outskirts called Nova Ves started developing. Construction of a monastery and the St.Mary's church on today’s Dolac also started. Building of the new, St. Stephen's cathedral started in the 14th century. Walls and towers around Kaptol were constructed because of the rising threat of the Turkish invasion. By 1522 even the cathedral was surrounded by walls and 8 towers making it the only church-fortress in Europe at that time. The cathedral was damaged on many occasions during the centuries, suffering earthquakes, fires and occasional conflicts between the secular Gradec and the religious, Episcopal Kaptol. Majority of the cathedral was destroyed in the earthquake in 1880, after which the renovation in Gothic style started. Walls and the tower in front of the cathedral were destroyed in 1906 and remained the same until today.

Numerous conflicts occurred between Kaptol and Gradec during the centuries. Kaptol tried to collect papal taxes which caused rebellions by the citizens of Gradec. Real small scale wars occured which usually ended by invading one of the cities. The largest conflict, so called the Civil war, occurred in 1527, but it ended shortly due to the increasing Turkish threat. Although Kaptol and Gradec were two separate boroughs, gradually the name Zagreb started to be used for both of them. In 1557 the Croatian parliament decides to make Zagreb the political centre and the capital of Croatia and Slavonija. Croatian governors did not have their seat in Zagreb until the beginning of the 17th century when Nikola Frankopan decided to give them one in 1621. Invited by the Croatian parliament Jesuits came to Zagreb in 1606, and one year later they brought their printing press machine to Zagreb from Ljubljana. Jesuits also started building St.Catherine's church and started a gymnasium. On September 23rd 1669 Jesuits founded the first university in this part of Europe called Academia Zagrabiensis, where they taught philosophy, theology and law. During the Baroque renovation of the city in the 17th and the 18th century, many luxurious mansions, monasteries and churches were built. Wealthy noble families, king's officials, church nobs and rich merchants started moving in to the city, but on the other hand the city was inflicted with huge fires and plague on a couple of occasions. The headquarters of the Croatian Royal Council (the Government) was moved to Zagreb from Varazdin, and during the rule of Joseph II Habsburg Zagreb became the general's headquarters for Karlovac and Varazdin command area.

Faster economical, political and cultural development of Zagreb begins in the 19th century. Centuries of differences between the Episcopal city on one side and the free royal city on the other are starting to fade away under the influence of the Illyrian movement. In 1850, two neighbouring boroughs unite into free, royal capitol, city of Zagreb, with population of 15000. A devastating earthquake struck Zagreb in 1880, leading to renovation and modernization of many overaged buildings. New public buildings were built, parks and fountains were planned, public transport and utilities organized. The first railroad going through Zagreb was built in 1862, plinification of the city was done the year after and the water line was constructed in 1878. Horse tram was introduced in 1891, and the electric tram in 1910. (Electric power grid was installed in 1907)

Cultural development of Zagreb in the 19th century is especially noted by the establishment of many cultural and educational institutions: in 1826 Musical Society (later renamed to Musical Institute) was founded, in 1829 the first music school opened it's doors, in 1834 the first acting school started working, in 1839 Illyrian base was founded (first Matica Ilirska, later Matica hrvatska), in 1840 Croatian National Theatre was built, in 1846 National Museum opened and in 1866 Academy of Sciences and Arts (today Croatian Academy of Sciences and Arts) started working.

Industrial development started in the mid 19th century. Over hundred industrial companies are present in Zagreb by 1910, and the most important are companies specialized in mechanics, fabrics, food products and graphics. Between the two world wars, Zagreb was the strong industrial centre. In 1926 the first radio station started broadcasting. The 20th century brings the spirit of art-deco into Zagreb. Townsmen live in luxury, firmly connected to the European culture, art and science centres of that time.

With the establishment of Banovina Hrvatska (Province of Croatia) in 1939, Zagreb becomes it's centre, and during the World war II it carries the role of the Independent State of Croatia's capital city, but through the Communist party and the partisan movement it is also the centre of the resistance against Nazism and fascism. As Nazism collapsed in the World war II and the Communist party took control of the Government in 1945, Croatia became a part of Federal People's Republic of Yugoslavia (later called Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia), and Zagreb became the capital of Socialist Republic of Croatia. The new government, through the use of revolutionary laws, confiscated all companies from their owners and nationalized the rest of the economy. Including the incoming flow of rural population, it led to a total stagnation of Zagreb.

By the end of 1950's, the city started to awaken and began it's modern development. The city spreads south, across the Sava river. The Zagreb City Fair opened it's doors and the construction of an international airport commenced in 1958. New cultural and scientific institutions were gradually established. The University started new faculties and was given new buildings. TV Zagreb (now Croatian Television) started broadcasting on May 15th 1956. Zagreb was struck by a devastating flood in 1964 which led to a search of a new town-planning scheme. In spite of the economical and cultural colonization between 1948 and 1990, Zagreb was the centre of resistance against the Yugoslav communist regime («Croatian spring» 1971), and the centre of Croatian cultural and national pride. First democratic elections in Croatia were held in 1990. Dissolution of Yugoslavia occurred in 1991 with Croatia proclaiming it's independence. Majority of world countries recognized Croatia as the independent state, and in May 1992 Croatia gained full membership in the UN. In spite of the international recognition of Croatia, the Yugoslav Army, influenced by Serbia's „Great Serbia“ policy and backed by from Serbian paramilitary forces, started an aggression on Croatia, occupying parts of Croatian territory. This is why the Croatian war of independence started. The war ended in 1995 with signing of the Dayton Agreement. By that time, the Croatian Army already won back most of the occupied territory, and in 1998 eastern Slavonija, the only remaining occupied part was peacefully reintegrated into Croatia. Although Zagreb, as the capital, did not suffer any severe damage during the Homeland war, many of the Zagreb citizens fought and died in the fights away from home. Zagreb was the target of two rocket attacks. The first one happened in October 7th 1991, when Yugoslav fighter planes launched a rocket assault on the headquarters of the Croatian Government (Banski dvori) leaving no casualties. The second was on May 2nd and 3rd 1995, when rocket assaults left 6 people dead and 175 wounded. Main targets were located in the city centre: Children's Hospital in Klaiceva street, one of the halls of the Croatian National Theatre and a Classical Gymnasium in Krizaniceva Street. After the war, Zagreb recovers and becomes a typical mid European capital. The city of Zagreb, with it's cultural and historical legacy and significance, is one of the most vital cities in Europe which through it's historical development became a cultural, scientific, trading, political and industrial centre of Croatia.

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